Backwoods

Backwoods

We start keeping track of our finds near Black River Falls when Sally shouts, “Eagle!” We’re on a long weekend trip to Cable, Wisconsin, to stay at a friend’s home called Hinterwald, which means “Backwoods.” Before we get to Cable, we’ve added to our list: barred owl, great blue heron, osprey, and another eagle. Then, at our destination, a ruffed grouse crosses the driveway!

I’ve been keeping lists of finds while on vacation since I was old enough to write. At Yellowstone National Park, my family counted elk, got into a wild burro jam, and pulled over for a picnic lunch only to find a black bear sleeping on the table. Through such encounters, I came to appreciate the backwoods and all who share it.

After parking, Sally and I hurry to the trail to Champagne Lake. We scan the rim of the lake, hoping to see wolves, elk, and bear. All can be found in Cable.

We trek down a two-track to Henry Lake, surrounded on both sides by tall red pines. It’s like walking down the aisle in a majestic cathedral. We can hear the wind whistling and the birds communicating.

We step onto the pier, and Sally uses her binoculars to scan the lake shore. Other than the wind, it’s quiet. We plop down and try to dangle our feet in the water, but our legs are too short.

Recently, our friend who owns the property watched two otters from this pier, but after 45 minutes of adding nothing to our list, we headed back to the house to unload the car, get dinner, and turn out the lights.

A whole new world opens to me in the morning. At the crack of dawn, I shuffle to the kitchen in my favorite slippers, put water in the electric pot, drop two teaspoons of instant coffee in a cup, and settle down in the screened-in sunporch.

I can see Champagne Lake through the woods, a yellow raft floating in the middle. The birch trees that line the horizon, mixed with a variety of old hemlocks and white pine, soothe my soul, and the birds...oh, the birds! I’ve been visiting Hinterwald for over ten years. It’s different from home—wilder.

A dozen different birds must be calling, though I can only name a few: red-winged blackbird, rose-breasted grosbeak, blue jay, American robin, Canada goose, and barred owl.

When Sally joins me, she helps me install an app called Merlin, which identifies birds by their calls. Within minutes, my phone lights up with many exciting finds: eastern phoebe, broad-winged hawk, hairy woodpecker, ovenbird, northern flicker, American goldfinch, brown-headed cowbird, red-breasted nuthatch, purple finch, veery, least flycatcher, eastern bluebird, golden-crowned kinglet, four different kinds of warblers, and five species of sparrows. We even hear the call of loons!

Some people, like Sally, have been using the Merlin app for years, but for me, this is new and amazing. As each bird appears on my screen, Sally tells me a few facts. For example, the golden-crowned kinglet is one of the tiniest songbirds in North America and can survive in sub-zero temperatures. Before our birding session was done, I was able to identify most of the birds I’m familiar with by their sound.

Realizing how many different types of birds I’m listening to fills me with awe at the wonder of nature and all who, alongside humans, survive here. I hadn’t realized the extent and variety of birds that share our space: in 10 minutes, 28 types of birds!

Later in the day, Mark, who works at the library in Cable, tells us he often sees black bears and wolves. At home, I’ve seen one bobcat, quite a few foxes and coyotes, but no wolves or bears.

The following morning, we’re back in the sunroom, enjoying coffee and identifying bird sounds, when I stand up, turn, and freeze. Unable even to say the word, I start to sputter and stutter. A black bear is foraging in the yard! Other than a few sightings, this is the closest I’ve been to a bear. The exhilaration of being so close to a large wild animal stays with me. It leaves me feeling hopeful about the coexistence of our two species.

By the time we head home, our list has expanded to include a flirty raven couple, another eagle, swans, white-tailed deer, an egret, turtles, sandhill cranes, more blue herons, and the bear.

As we put our seat belts on, I’m still hoping to see an elk or a gray wolf, but I’m ready for any wild encounter. There’s always more to see and hear if we’re looking and listening.

Morgan Falls

Bear leaving property